![]() Having your saw at the proper height (your forearm should be horizontal when filing) encourages proper technique and maximizes both comfort and control. Whether you sit or stand when filing, it is important not to have the saw teeth too high or low. One final thing to consider when looking for and setting up your saw vise: height matters. Alternatively, you can stick a layer or two of painter’s masking tape on the saw blade just above the gullets.Ĭloseup of the dovetailed recess for a rubber insert in a Wentworth saw vise. There are several possible replacements for these, including leather strips or laces and rubber window screen spline. ![]() These liners are invariably missing or dried out. These liners improved the grip of the vise, and reduced noise and vibration while filing. Many old saw vises had accomodations for leather or rubber jaw liners. Do not use grease or oil, as they will hold onto contaminants and exacerbate wear. Whether you find a good one or make repairs, it is prudent to prevent further wear by keeping the area free of filings and regularly lubricated with a dry lubricant (graphite, wax, etc.). In some cases, this damage can be repaired or compensated for (the entry for the Disston 3D saw vise below has an example of this). In many cases, the cast iron becomes so worn that it is no longer capable of clamping a saw tightly. Dry cast iron on cast iron is bound to wear, and the inevitable contamination with stray saw filings only accelerates the process. The clamping mechanisms are particularly susceptible to wear over time. Cracked or broken castings are usually, but not always, something to walk away from.Ĭheck for wear on the moving parts, or the parts which they move against. When you find a good candidate, examine it closely. The further this point of rotation is from the jaws, the worse this problem will be. Although it is a seductive feature, it is, in fact, often detrimental to the function of a vise since the pivoting mechanism introduces a point of rotation that almost inevitably reduces rigidity. Unless you are filing teeth with sloped gullets, there is little need for a vise that pivots. While there are many vises that will work well for the former, the universe of acceptable vises for the latter is far smaller. The force needed to file a 16 ppi dovetail saw is far less than that needed for a 4 ppi rip saw. The larger the teeth you are filing, the more solid the vise needs to be. If necessary, review the qualities of a good saw vise, then identify the saws that you will use the vise for. How, then, does one go about selecting a vise suitable for its intended use? Over the last century and a half, dozens or hundreds of saw vise designs were patented or manufactured. Almost invariably, manufactured vises are made from metal (usually cast iron), while shop made ones use wooden bodies. In this installment, we will look at a few manufactured saw vises and briefly consider their qualities, both good and bad.įor our purposes, we will divide saw vises into two broad categories: manufactured and shop made. In the previous installment, we looked at the main criteria to consider when selecting a saw vise. ![]() Ed.Ī brief look at manufactured saw vises, being the second part in a saw sharpening serial. Should the author belabor a point, it is because we believe it too important to leave unsaid or to chance. The series will be as comprehensive as possible without making it too tedious or dense for the writer or reader. You can also find related posts by searching this blog for “saw sharpening series”, or by visiting the full chronological index. To ensure you don’t miss any future posts, you can subscribe to this blog by submitting your email address in the box to the right. This is the second entry in a saw sharpening serial.
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